Red River Gorge is the best sport climbing in the Southeast. It's also huge and sometimes overwhelming for a first trip. These three routes are a great introduction.
Breakfast Burrito (5.7), Muir Valley
If you can climb one route at the Red, make it this one. Fun movement, easy approach, plenty of bolts. It's the route I take every new-to-the-Red friend on.
Muir Valley is private land, pay the fee at the parking lot. Respect the rules or it closes.
Jesus Wept (5.10b), Gallery
A classic first 5.10 at the Red. Twenty-one bolts of varied movement. Crux is in the middle and surmountable. The Gallery is steep, so bring quickdraws that aren't new (steep climbs are hard on gate wear).
Approach is short, 10 minutes from the parking lot. Good for busy weekends when you don't want to hike far.
27 Years of Climbing (5.11a), Left Flank
If you're solid on 5.10s and want to push into 11, this is the on-sight route. Long, pumpy, with rests. Feels like a classic 11a and is one.
Left Flank is one of the best crags in the Gorge and the approach is under 15 minutes. If it's crowded, try Bob Marley Crag nearby.
Logistics
Stay at Miguel's Pizza (camp, cabin) or in Slade. Miguel's has food, showers, and the climbing community. It's an experience.
Bring a 70m rope. Most routes don't need it, but some do. A 60m works for these three.
Gas up in Slade before heading into the gorges. The little pumps in the canyon run out on busy weekends.
Weather
April to May and October to November are peak. Summer is too humid to climb well. Winter is cold but climbable on south-facing walls with sun.
After climbing
Miguel's Pizza is mandatory. So is Sky Bridge overlook at sunset. Both are 5 minutes from any major crag.
