If you've been climbing in the gym and want your first outdoor bouldering experience, Horse Pens 40 in Alabama is a great choice. It's sandstone, the problems start easy, and the community is welcoming.
Getting there
From Memphis: 4 hours. From Nashville: 3. From Atlanta: 2.
Camping on site. Rustic, not glampy, but the location is unbeatable. Reserve ahead for fall weekends.
The climbing
Sloper-heavy. Horse Pens is famous for rounded, featureless problems that require technique over strength. If you want to work on open hand grip and body tension, this is the spot.
V0 to V3 problems are plentiful. V4 and up get thin fast. It's not a power destination, but it's a technique destination.
What to bring
- Climbing shoes. Slightly more aggressive than you'd wear indoors. Katanas or Solutions work. Beginner shoes are fine too.
- Chalk bag plus a chalk bucket for boulder routes.
- Bouldering pad. One is minimum. Two is better.
- Brush for the slopers. Boar's hair, not plastic.
- Tape for fingers.
- Water. Lots.
Etiquette
Take turns. Pad crashing (overlapping pads for hard landings) is standard. Ask before adding your pad to someone else's crash zone.
Don't brush holds with plastic brushes. It damages the rock.
Music on speakers is generally not welcome. Headphones are fine.
Food
There's a small store on site. Prices are fine, selection is limited. Pick up real food in Gadsden on the way in.
When to go
October to March is the season. Summer is too humid. Winter rain can be a blocker but sandstone dries faster than granite.
We ran a Horse Pens trip last October from the Olive Branch store. If you want to join the next one, email me through the store page.
